Sore wrists, bulging cupboards I've had bad RSI after spending a couple of 12-hour days hunched over the computer about 10 days ago, in a stupid attempt to get a big analysis finished in a (completely arbitrarily determined) short amount of time. I am still not caught up with blog entries - the most recent ones below have been partly typed one-handed and very slowly, and partly dictated to the long-suffering and very generous Ted. It's particularly frustrating because, being banished from the computer at night, I have been cooking lots of good stuff. There is still the spinach and olive tart to describe yet, and the burgul salad with tahini dressing... Ted and I were lounging around after eating the first half of that spinach tart last night, and thinking about how much we spend on food every week. I considered how over-stuffed our pantry was, and suggested that we spend this one week (Monday morning till Sunday night) living only off what we had in the apartment. It would be so useful on several fronts - saving money, using up some of the obscure ingredients shoved to the back of the cupboard, eating more healthily as our takeaway habit could not be indulged. The idea was quickly modified to allow us to buy fresh fruit and vegetables (and milk for Ted's essential breakfast cereal), but other than that we are to pass though the aisles of the supermarket untempted (or at least not giving in). If we make it, we will go to dinner at La Fourchette on Sunday night, to partly undo the benefits of the week. Feeling very virtuous in anticipation, I made a Grant loaf last night, using about 300 g spelt flour, 180 g wholemeal flour, and 70 g rye flour, with an additional 80 g in total of flax seeds, sunflower seeds and rye flakes - a very good combination. That used up a little of the flour we have lying around (currently including plain flour, strong bread flour, Italian type 00, self-raising, wholemeal, spelt, rye, buckwheat, barley, corn, rice and potato), and was the basis of a very good lunch at university today with some cherry tomatoes, baby spinach and the end of some Swaledale cheese bought on the weekend. Tonight we ate the second half of the spinach and olive tart, and a salad of lambs' lettuce, cherry tomatoes and feta, with a dressing of olive oil and red wine vinegar (selected from our cupboard shelf of oils including extra virgin olive, garlic-infused olive, chilli-infused olive, peanut, pumpkin seed, hazlenut, flax and sesame, and vinegars including red wine, white wine, balsamic, raspberry, white rice, red rice, black rice, malt and white). Tomorrow's lunch will be more of the same as today, but I haven't decided on dinner yet. Perhaps a dal, to use up some portion of the channa, urud, toor and mung dals we have on the shelf, or some other pulse-based dish using Puy lentils, red lentils, kidney beans, navy beans, cannelini beans or turtle beans. The dal idea has more merit, since it would probably use more of the approximately 50 different spices jumbled on the second-bottom shelf of the pantry. Then some time later in the week, we could make a dish based around one of nine shapes of pasta (including some of the 2.5 kg of orrechiette), or noodles (rice stick, egg, soba, mushroom or tea flavoured), or millet grain, spelt, burgul, barley or polenta. And somewhere in there I would like to use at least a bit of the 3 jars of tahini we have somehow accumulated. I have to admit that although I am still enthusiastic about the idea, I have been running up against a few brick walls. When excavating through the cupboard I thought, "a-ha, I can use up that old jar of morello cherries in a clafouti!", only to remember that we have only one egg in the house and one of the main purposes of this week is to clear some food out without bringing more in, even perishable things like eggs. Fortunately I can have quite a good drink to help me get creative about it - I was concerned when I realised that we had cut ourselves off from the bottle shop while possessing no wine and only one bottle of beer, but cheered up no end when I surveyed the alcohol shelf and discovered that we have 21 bottles of hard liquor in the house, including one of Vana Tallinn, a very drinkable Estonian liqueur. If these lists of ingredients spark any ideas within you, please let me know! I am particularly interested in finding a recipe using large quantities of split urud dahl, since the only ones I have found so far use it in half-teaspoon amounts, as an ingredient in tempering. My two or three cups of it will last forever, at that rate. Also: what am I going to do with those cherries? Especially in fresh cherry season, it seems ridiculous to use them, but they've been in the cupboard for at least 18 months and I'm determined that they should go. Comments (disabled)
Last month I bought half a dozen books on programming and calculus and other scientific topics, to improve myself and make me look even more fantastic than I really am on my postdoc applications. To leaven this worthy stuff, I also ordered a copy of Fuchsia Dunlop's Sicuhan Cookery, a book I have been eyeing off ever since it first came out in 2001. I am so glad I gave in to temptation: it's brilliant. It begins with a short history of the area, and a description of traditional Sichuan cuisine, including meal structure, ingredients, food preparation, and equipment. Then there are the recipes, each one introduced by a paragraph of interesting and relevent information. There are only a few pages of colour photos scattered throughout the book, but they're well-chosen and very very tempting-looking. Although like most cookbooks the majority of recipes call for some meat, there are more than enough vegetarian recipes to make it worthwhile, and she suggests vegetarian versions of quite a few recipes which traditionally incorporate meat. I cooked a quartet of dishes from this book, enough to serve 4 with rice. The lettuce dish should be served first, while the others are being finished in the kitchen. Some notes: the dried chillies used in these recipes are the plump Sichuanese kind; if you can't obtain these it is OK to substitute long Indian chillies. Don't use short Thai chillies, which are far hotter. The brand of chilli bean paste Dunlop recommends is Lee Kum Kee, which I found at my local Asian market - if you can't find this brand, make sure whichever one you buy is based on broad beans, not soy beans. The dishes are pictured below. Clockwise from the top left, they are lettuce with sesame dressing, ma po tofu, stir-fried amaranth leaves with garlic, and dry-fried green beans. I found the sesame sauce on the lettuce a bit too sesame-y, but the tofu was utterly delicious, and both the greens were good. I will be cooking lots more from this book soon!
Lettuce with sesame dressing
In the original recipe, the lettuce was used raw. I decided to lightly cook it first, by quickly sauteing the lettuce quarters in a little peanut oil in a wok, then adding a tablespoon or two of water and cooking for a further two minutes, then removing the lettuce with tongs and shaking off any remaining water. Place the lettuce on a plate. Combine the sesame paste and oil in a little bowl, then season with sugar and salt to taste. Pour this over the lettuce, and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Serve at room temperature. Ma po tofu
Cut the tofu into 2 cm cubes and steep in very hot, lightly salted water for 10 minutes. Cut the spring onions into thin slices at a steep angle. Heat the peanut oil in a wok over medium heat, then add the chilli bean paste and stir-fry for about 30 seconds. Add the black beans and ground chillies and stir-fry for another 30 seconds, until they are fragrant. Pour in the stock and add the drained tofu. Gently mix everything together by pushing the spoon gently from the edges to the centre of the wok. Take care not to break up the tofu. Season with the sugar, soy sauce and salt to taste. Simmer for about 5 minutes. Add the spring onions. Gently stir and cook for 1 minute. Add half the potato flour mixture, mixing well. The sauce should thicken enough to be glossy and cling to the bean curd. Add a little more if necessary to reach this stage. Pour into a bowl, scatter with the ground Sichuan pepper, and serve. Dry-fried green beans
Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wok over a low-medium heat, the add the green beans and cook, stirring, for about 6 minutes, until they are tender and the skins are slighly puckered. Set aside. Heat 2 tablespoons of fresh oil in the wok over high heat. Add the chillies and pepper and stir-fry very briefly until they are aeromatic. Add the garlic, ginger and spring onions and stir-fry until they are also fragrant. Add the beans, toss the ingredients together, adding salt to taste. Serve at once. Stir-fried amaranth leaves with garlic
Wash the amaranth thoroughly to remove any grit, then shake dry. Remove the leaves and any tender stems, discarding the coarse stalks. Heat the oil in a wok over a high heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry briefly, then throw in the amaranth. Cook, stirring thoroughly until the leaves have wilted and the stalks are tender. Season with salt to taste, and serve at once. Comments (disabled)
Green and red stirfry
Heat the peanut oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add the broccoli and pepper and cook for a couple of minutes, then add the greens, ginger, garlic and chilli flakes. Saute for a few minutes further, until the greens are wilting and the ginger and garlic are aromatic. Add the soy sauce and fish sauce, and continue to cook for a minute or two more, till the vegetables are as you like. Serve at once with steamed rice or noodles. Serves 2. Comments (disabled)
Roasted green beans with garlic
Wash the green beans, and trim them. Peel the garlic cloves, but leave whole. Combine the beans, garlic, oil and salt in a large baking dish, and toss with your hands until everything is very lightly coated with the oil. Roast at 180C for about 20 minutes, until the beans are slightly brown in spots, and parts of the skin are lightly blistered. Taste one to check that it is done. Serve at once, hot (although apparently they are also good at room temperature, for finger food). Serves 2-4 as a side dish, depending on how much else is on the table. Blueberry cobbler
Preheat the oven to 180C. Combine the sugar, cornflour, water and lemon juice in a large pan, and stir to dissolve the cornflour. Add the fruit, then bring the mixture to the boil over medium heat and simmer for one minute, stirring gently to avoid breaking the fruit. Remove from the heat, taste and add a little more sugar or lemon juice as necessary. Pour into a 1.7 litre casserole dish. Combine the flour, 2 tablespoons of sugar, bicarbonate of soda, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Melt the butter and combine with the buttermilk, then stir the liquid into the dry mixture in three lots, stirring to combine - do not overmix. Drop spoonfuls of this sticky dough onto the top of the fruit. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until the scone crust is golden. Serve warm or hot, with cream or vanilla icecream. Serves 4-6. Comments (disabled)
Zucchini, basil and pine nut muffins
Preaheat the oven to 190 C. Grease the muffin tins with butter or oil. Combine the eggs, milk and olive oil in one bowl. In another, larger bowl, mix together the flours, pine nuts, sugar, salt and baking soda. Add the liquid to the dry ingredients in about three lots, mixing only to combine. Be careful not to overbeat. Add the zucchini, basil and half the cheese, and stir to combine. Fill each muffin cup about half-full. Sprinkle the tops with the rest of the cheese, then bake for 22-25 minutes, until the tops are dark golden and puffed. (I always remove one muffin and split it in half to check that it is cooked all the way through before taking the tray out.) These are great while still warm but keep well for several hours (or possibly longer - I haven't been able to have any left uneaten for that long). Comments (disabled)
I like this method of cooking eggplants (despite the absence of tomato). It becomes tender, while still holding its shape, and isn't at all oily. You could follow the original baking steps and then add various other dressings at the end - perhaps a mixture of red wine vinegar, honey and fresh mint would work too? Eggplant with oregano and white wine vinegar
Remove the alfoil from the dish and gently toss the aubergine again. Cook for a further 10-15 minutes, until the aubergine is tender and slightly golden. Remove from the oven and transfer the aubergine to a bowl. Add the white wine vinegar to taste, and sprinkle over the oregano leaves. Toss well, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve warm or at room temperature. Orzo with zucchini, mint and lemon
Cook the orzo in boiling, salted water till al dente, then drain. Return the orzo to the pan, drizzle over a little garlic-infused olive oil, and add the grated zucchini. Cook this over medium heat for about 2 minutes, stirring. Remove from the heat and tip into a bowl. Stir through the mint, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning, then serve. Comments (disabled)
Harira
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over moderate heat, then saute the onions for 8 minutes until they are translucent and soft. Add the garlic, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric and saffron and cook a further 2-3 minutes, until the spices are aromatic. Add the tomatoes, stock, lentils, chickpeas and aubergine, and simmer, partially covered, for 15-20 minutes, until the aubergine is tender. Add the vermicelli and cook, stirring, for another few minutes, until it is al dente. Add a little more liquid if necessary. Finally, add the preserved lemon, coriander, honey and harissa. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve with wedges of lemon and additional harissa for those who want more heat. Serves 6-8. Comments (disabled)
I'm heading to the US shortly to go to a couple of conferences, so no updates until early July (unless Ted decides to do a guest entry or two while I'm away, of course!). Hopefully I will have tales of good food to relate then. I plan on eating lots and lots of Mexican. Mmmm, chillies. Comments (disabled)
The advantage of this being not a real farmers' market is that we could arrive around noon and know that everything would still be there! Nomally I like to wander along markets, zigzagging from one side of the street to the other, buying things which catch my eye at the time, rather than trying to keep them all in mind to come back and purchase later. But since I was pretty peckish, we zipped from one end to the other in search of the most appealing lunch, bought it and ate it sitting on the curb, then, stomachs satisfied, returned to buy all those things which had tempted me before. Click on the thumbnails to see the good things we observed!
There were lots more stalls, including various local cheese producers, people selling Indian spice pastes, lots of meaty things, a couple of bakeries, some vegetarian caterers..... it was all good. It's on again next weekend, and highly recommended if you're in Brighton! Comments (disabled)
For the coconut cream, you can simply use the cream which floats to the top of most cans of coconut milk as long as you don't shake the can before you open it. Alternatively, you could use one of the little mini tetrapacks of coconut cream, using half for the initial frying and adding the rest with the coconut milk later. I used mostly aubergines in this curry because I had seen the gorgeous pea eggplants in Ryelight and wanted to see what they were like - little explosions of flavour, slightly bitter, is the answer, yum - but you could use whatever combination takes your fancy, making it up to about the same weight and volume. Thai green curry with eggplant and green beans
Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the coconut cream and cook until it is bubbling. Add the curry paste and stir until it is dissolved. I've read several recipes saying to keep cooking this until you see a sheen of coconut oil on top - I cooked it for two or three minutes and didn't see this, and was wary of overcooking it (can you, I wonder?), so I called it done. Add the chopped palm sugar and stir to dissolve. Now add the lime juice, the fish sauce, and the coconut milk. Stir well to combine, then taste. Check for the balance of flavours, but most importantly check that it is sour enough (add more lime juice if not). Add more sugar if it seems too spicy (though remember that the vegetables and rice will dilute the heat a bit). Add both kinds of eggplants, partially cover the pan, and leave to simmer for 8-10 minutes, until the eggplants are tender. Add the mushrooms and green beans and cook for 3-5 minutes more. Taste the curry, and adjust with more lime, fish sauce, or coconut milk if necessary. Pour the curry into a serving bowl and sprinkle with the basil, and finely sliced fresh green chillies if you wat a bit more bite. Serve with steamed white rice. Serves two starving, greedy people, or 3 or 4 normal people for a light meal. Comments (disabled)
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